A Very Tivoli Birthday

Candy making in Copenhagen

Yesterday was our busiest yet and was incredibly lucrative for the book. I had a lovely birthday breakfast, complete with flags (the Danes use flags for celebrations here in a way that would never be done in the states). Then my mom and I headed into the city for a quite stop at a little candy store that I had visited when we were here last summer. You can watch as they pull the candy into strips, then break it up into the little pieces that are then sold. We even got to sample some fresh pieces of rhubarb-flavored candy, which was still warm and pliable when we put it into our mouths but hardened as it adjusted to the cooler temperature. Delicious!

The Pantomime Theatre at Tivoli

Tivoli Gardens started as a leisure park in 1843 and was, at that time, just outside of Copenhagen. When the city was expanded they found themselves in the middle of the action and now the central train station is just across the street. I have very warm memories of going on rides at Tivoli as a child and was happy to spend my birthday there. Our first appointment was with Ellen, the press officer who specializes in Tivoli history. She told us some fascinating stories about how it has changed throughout the years. For example, the buildings used to be made in a way that was very temporary, on purpose. When they went to renovate one several years ago they stuck a screw driver into the wall and found that it was plater over chicken wire stuffed with hay! These days Tivoli is a bustling attraction featuring dozens of restaurants, rides, games, shopping, concerts, and of course, the pantomime theatre. 

Me talking to the "bald chef"

Next we got to go "backstage" at the kitchens of Den Skaldede Cok which translates to The Bald Chef. The chef goes by "Olsen" and was so friendly and accommodating. He has quite the history, having recently lost 71 kilograms (about 156 lbs). He is covered in tattoos, including "good luck" written on his knuckles and a very cool skull on his ear. After much photographing we indulged in the smoked salmon dish which is served cold with a very mild soft cheese spread.

At the next restaurant, Grøftens, which is the oldest restaurant at Tivoli, we were on exclusively photography duty. One of the dishes features tiny shrimp on toast and cost around 600 KR, or about $100! They are hand-peeled and are apparently more expensive than caviar these days.

After Grøftens we rushed out of the city in order to visit with Anita Klemensen, the first female chef in Denmark to earn a Michelin star. Anita was so sweet and down-to-earth. Her two restaurants, the red cottage and the green cottage, are located just down the street from each other. She seemed very flattered by the fame of receiving the star, but was clearly not letting it go to her head. I would've enjoyed relaxing at the little cottage by the water for some time, but we had another appointment to keep!

The Red Cottage

So it was back to Tivoli, for our final restaurant appointment at Brdr. Price (Brothers Price). The Price family is well-known in Denmark for being artistic; one brother is a composer, another a writer for television, and their parents were an actor and dancer. The decor of the restaurant reflects this history. We met with the head chef who gave us a recipe for a braised chicken dish served with potatoes, pickled cucumbers, and rhubarb compote. Then we were joined there by our friends for a lengthy birthday dinner where we were able to take off our author hats, stop taking notes and pictures, and enjoy the meal!